The door and window schedule for a new custom home is a collaborative document, but responsibility typically falls to the design and construction team rather than the homeowner. Architects or residential designers lay out the initial locations, sizes, swing directions and performance targets during the construction document phase, but a builder or design‑build team like RKM Homes converts those specifications into a buildable, procurement‑ready schedule. We work directly with architects, interior designers and manufacturers to resolve details such as rough‑opening dimensions, jamb depths, casing profiles and hardware sets so the schedule reflects both the design intent and on‑site realities.

Technical and code-driven requirements shape many entries in the schedule, so precision matters. The schedule must account for egress window sizes, tempered or laminated glazing where required, U‑factor and SHGC targets for Denver’s climate, flashing and air‑sealing details that interface with the wall assembly, and structural considerations like wind and snow loads for exposed lots. Timing is also critical: windows and specialty doors often have long lead times, so final selections and shop drawings need to be completed well before framing finishes to prevent delays. We cross‑check rough openings against framing, slab or finished‑floor heights, and threshold treatments to avoid costly rework.

At RKM Homes we take ownership of producing and managing the final door and window schedule to keep projects on time and on budget. Our process includes vetting manufacturer submittals, coordinating deliveries with site sequencing, clarifying hardware and fire‑rating requirements, and updating the schedule when homeowner selections or field conditions change. That centralized approach reduces conflicts between trades, ensures the assemblies meet energy and code requirements for Denver, and gives homeowners a clear roadmap for selections and timelines during construction.

 

Responsible parties and decision authority

Who is responsible for creating and approving the door and window schedule for a new custom home? In our experience the short answer is: it depends on the project delivery team, but responsibility usually falls to either the architect (if you have full construction documents), the builder/GC (if you’re doing design-build), or the window/door supplier for the final, verifiable sizes. Architects will typically provide a preliminary schedule in the construction documents showing types, rough sizes, and performance requirements; the builder converts that into a buildable schedule and coordinates with suppliers; the manufacturer or dealer then produces final shop drawings and confirms exact sizes after field verification.

Who ultimately signs off on selections, sizes, and ordering? The homeowner generally has decision authority over style, finish, operation (e.g., fixed vs. casement), and hardware, and must provide written approval before the supplier places an order. As the builder, we prepare a draft schedule for your review at selections and again for final sign-off on shop drawings; we require a homeowner-signed approval form before ordering to avoid disputes. Make sure your contract specifies who will approve shop drawings, who is authorized to place purchase orders, and who pays for changes after ordering.

What practical steps should a homeowner take to avoid surprises? Ask at contract signing who will own the schedule and who will be the approver, insist on manufacturer shop drawings and a final homeowner/contractor sign-off before ordering, and require the supplier to perform field verification of rough openings before fabrication. Clarify in writing who handles measurement errors, lead-time delays, and retrofit costs if a window or door doesn’t fit — that prevents finger-pointing later and protects your budget and timeline.

 

 

 

What details must be included in my home’s door and window schedule?

From our experience as a custom home builder, a complete schedule must list each opening with a unique tag and its exact location (plan and elevation reference), plus both the finished frame size and the rough opening dimensions. For every tagged item you should see the operation type (e.g., fixed, casement, sliding, awning, hopper), door swing or window reveal direction, material (wood, aluminum-clad, fiberglass, vinyl), exterior and interior color/finish, interior jamb depth, and the designated trim or casing profile. Practical tip: insist that sizes be shown relative to “AFF” (above finished floor) or finished grade so sill heights and head heights are unambiguous.

Performance and safety specifications belong in the schedule, not left to guesswork. Each unit should include glazing type and configuration (e.g., double-pane, low-E, argon fill), U‑factor and SHGC values, tempered or safety-glass notes where required, egress compliance for bedrooms, and any required fire-rating or sound-rating designations. Also list functional hardware and security requirements—lockset type, keyed or passage, hinges/finish—and whether an insect screen, interior or exterior blinds, or specialty glazing (obscure, laminated) is required, because those choices change the actual product ordered and the finished look.

Expect two levels of detail: a design-level schedule that captures tags, basic sizes, operation, and performance targets, and a final shop/order schedule that carries manufacturer names, model numbers/part codes, exact finish codes, hardware set numbers, and reference shop drawings for each opening. As builders we provide shop drawings or cut sheets for homeowner review that show jamb details, threshold type, and exact sightlines; you should review and approve those specifics so the product ordered matches your finish selections and the interior trim reveals you expect.

 

When should the door and window schedule be finalized, what are typical lead times, and how do the approval and change processes work?

We typically finalize the door and window schedule during the pre‑construction phase—after construction documents are complete but before we place factory orders or book field measurements. From our experience, homeowners need to lock selections and sign the schedule at least 6–12 weeks before the windows/doors are required on site for a standard build. For stocked or standard units lead times can be as short as 4–8 weeks; for custom sizes, specialty glazing, large curtain-wall systems or high‑end exterior doors expect 10–20+ weeks. We will tell you the cutoff date in your project timeline: once you sign off and we submit the order or authorize a field measure, the clock starts for manufacturing and delivery.

After the order is placed the manufacturer issues shop drawings and often requires a formal sign‑off; this is the critical approval step where sizes, jamb depths, swing, hardware, glass, sill detail and flashing interface are verified. We coordinate review of those drawings with you and the architect; approving the shop drawings is effectively final authorization to fabricate. Some manufacturers also require a site “field verify” measurement after framing is complete—if so, we schedule that before final fabrication, but it can add a week or two to your lead time. We always ask homeowners to review shop drawings closely and return approvals within a tight window (we recommend 3–5 business days) to avoid hold ups.

Changes after order or after shop drawing approval are costly and disruptive. Typical consequences are manufacturer change/cancellation fees, extended lead times, and possible rework to rough openings or trim—fees can be a significant percentage of the item cost and will push other trades out of sequence. Practical owner actions that prevent trouble: make final style and hardware decisions early, accept a firm sign‑off cutoff in writing with your builder, ask for written estimates of change fees and revised lead times before making a change, and allow a schedule buffer for delivery. We’ll always walk you through what’s reversible and what becomes final so you can make informed choices without derailing the overall build.

 

How much will doors and windows cost, what do allowances cover, and how are they ordered?

As a custom home builder we break cost into three parts you should review: the allowance (what the contract includes), upgrades you choose, and installation/coordination costs. Typical allowances in our contracts cover a standard model, standard finish, basic hardware, and standard energy glass — not specialty sizes, impact glass, heavy bronze frames, or custom stained doors. To give a practical sense, typical per-unit window allowances on custom projects can range from a few hundred dollars for a simple single‑hung to $800–$1,500+ for larger thermally broken casement or fixed units; exterior entry doors can range from $1,500 for a simple steel door to $6,000–$10,000+ for high‑end custom wood or glass ensembles. Always ask your builder for an itemized allowance sheet so you can see what’s included (frame finish, screens, standard hardware, basic low‑E glass) and what will trigger an upgrade charge.

Ordering logistics and timing are where budgets are won or lost. Manufacturers commonly require a deposit (often 30–50%) and won’t schedule production until shop drawings are signed off — these are the precise sizing and flashing details we must approve. Lead times vary: stock windows might ship in 2–6 weeks, semi‑custom 6–12 weeks, and fully custom or high‑performance units 12–20+ weeks depending on season and supply-chain pressure. Changes after order are expensive: expect restocking or re‑fabrication fees, plus new lead times; we typically define a cut‑off date for selections (and a change‑order fee schedule) in the contract to avoid surprises.

Practical steps we recommend to control cost and logistics: lock in your selections at the subcontractor selection milestone, request written lead times and deposit schedules, and insist on manufacturer shop drawings with field‑measure verification before shipping. Plan deliveries for “just in time” installation — site storage risks damage, theft, and added insurance — and require freight inspection at delivery so damage claims are immediate. Finally, budget a realistic allowance overage contingency (we commonly recommend 5–10% of the total door/window allowance) to cover upgrades or unexpected sizing so you’re not surprised when selections exceed the allowance.

 

 

How do I coordinate doors and windows with my home’s structure, energy/code requirements, and installation schedule?

Who is responsible for making sure the door and window schedule matches the structure? We work with the architect and structural engineer to translate unit sizes into exact rough openings, header sizes, and sill elevations. As the builder we verify those dimensions in the field before anything is ordered: confirm rough opening width/height, required bearing points or pockets for jambs, specified LVL or steel header sizes, and any masonry or veneer support details. Homeowners should ask to see stamped shop drawings and a site verification sign-off — that prevents costly retrofit framing when a unit shows up that doesn’t fit.

What energy-code and safety details need to be on the schedule so installations meet inspections? The schedule must include required U‑factor/SHGC or NFRC ratings for each elevation, tempering locations, and egress window sizes for bedrooms so the windows meet code and the inspector can cross-check easily. We also call out air-barrier continuity and flashing details tied to the wall assembly (where the WRB, membrane and flashing integrate with the window flange) so the installer can maintain the house envelope. Ask your builder to include the manufacturer performance labels, the exact condition under which ratings apply (orientation/installation method), and who will provide the energy compliance documentation for the final permit.

When should installation be coordinated and who manages sequencing and protection? Plan installation timing around framing, sheathing, and exterior weatherproofing — we typically install windows after rough plumbing/electrical inspections but before siding so flashing can be completed properly; doors that need final hardware are often staged later. Request that your contract require manufacturer‑certified installers, an installation checklist (flashings, pan details, spray foam or backer rod locations), and a pre‑installation field mockup or inspection point so we can catch conflicts early. Also insist on documented delivery and storage procedures on site (protected, off the ground, climate controlled if required) and on a documented sign‑off when units are accepted to avoid warranty disputes.