Split-level homes can be especially well suited to aging homeowners when the design reduces long runs of stairs and concentrates daily living on a single, easily accessed plane. At RKM Homes we design on the client’s lot to take advantage of natural grade changes—placing a primary suite and main living areas at the entry or on a walkout level so residents can avoid multiple flights each day. Thoughtful site orientation also makes it easier to create zero-step entries, sheltered porches to limit ice and snow exposure, and direct access from driveways or garages to the main living level, all important in Denver’s climate.
Practical interior details make a big difference in usability. Shorter, shallower stair runs with lower riser heights (targeting around 6″) and deeper treads (11–12″) reduce effort and fall risk; continuous handrails and good lighting and contrast on step edges improve safety. Standard accessibility clearances—36″ doorways, 42–48″ hallways, and 60″ turning space in bathrooms and kitchens—accommodate walkers or wheelchairs; a 1:12 ramp slope, curbless showers, elevated toilet heights, lever-style hardware, and non-slip flooring further simplify daily tasks. Planning for a future stairlift or an in-home elevator (reserving a stacked shaft space) avoids costly retrofits later.
On the construction side, choosing the right foundation and mechanical layout ahead of time saves money and preserves options for aging-in-place enhancements. Walkout basements, slab-on-grade pads for main-floor living, roofed entries to reduce ice buildup, and routing HVAC and electrical to allow future lift installation are examples of how we integrate accessibility into the build. RKM Homes works with clients, their lots, and local code requirements to balance performance, durability for Denver weather, and long-term mobility needs—so homeowners can stay comfortable and safe in their home for years to come.
How do I design a single-level primary suite with zero-step exterior and interior access in a split-level home?
For most split-level houses the fastest way to make day-to-day life easier is to put the primary suite on the grade level that already ties to the exterior — typically the entry or garage level — or build a small slab-on-grade addition at that elevation. As a builder in Denver I look first for the side of the house with the gentlest slope and the fewest buried services; locating the suite where existing floor height is close to exterior grade minimizes foundation work and avoids long runs of plumbing and ductwork. If you’re remodeling an existing split-level, converting a garage or creating a bump-out over a new slab are common, cost-effective strategies that keep the bedroom, bathroom and a small closet all on a single plane so no interior steps are required.
Getting a truly zero-step condition means treating the junction of interior floor and exterior landing as a construction detail, not a finish detail. I specify a poured concrete landing or slab extension set to match the finished interior floor elevation, a recessed sill pan and low-profile exterior threshold, and positive exterior drainage away from the house (drain slope and a covered overhang to reduce ice buildup in winter). If the house has a raised floor, the alternatives are lowering the floor structure (sistering joists or creating a new slab pocket), or building up the exterior landing and porch to be flush with the interior — both require coordination with structural, flashing and waterproofing systems so you don’t introduce moisture or thermal bridges at the wall line.
Practical planning items I always discuss with homeowners up front: identify and relocate any plumbing/vent stacks or HVAC runs that would interfere with a slab tie-in; plan exterior grading, guttering and a covered entry to reduce snow and ice on the zero-step threshold; and choose door systems and finishes rated for flush transitions (insulated sliding or pivot doors and integrated sill pans work well). Budget for permits and inspections for any foundation work and expect the biggest cost drivers to be foundation/slab modification, waterproofing and re-routing utilities — addressing those early saves money and keeps the suite truly step-free for decades.
What stair solutions and alternatives make a split‑level home easier to navigate for aging homeowners?
As a custom home builder I start by treating the existing stair runs as a design problem: reduce step height and increase tread depth where possible, keep all risers identical, and limit long continuous runs with intermediate landings. For aging clients I aim for risers in the 6–7″ range and treads of 11–12″ so each step feels shallower and more secure; if you can’t change every run, modify at least the primary route between living and sleeping areas. Specify 36–42″ wide stairs for easier two‑hand balance and install continuous handrails on both sides at 34–38″ above the tread—use a graspable 1¼–2″ diameter profile, returned to the wall and extended about 12″ at the top and bottom to make transfers and turns predictable.
If the homeowner needs mechanical assistance, stair lifts are often the quickest retrofit. There are straight and curved models: straight rails mount directly to the treads and are far less expensive, while curved rails are custom‑bent to follow contours and add considerable cost. Plan for a minimum clear stair width (typically ~30–36″ depending on manufacturer) so a folded lift still leaves a usable path; provide a dedicated 110V outlet at the top or bottom for charging, and choose a unit with battery backup, swivel seat and 300–400 lb capacity if needed. I recommend pre‑specifying mounting points and routing conduit during a remodel so the lift can be installed with minimal disruption later.
For homeowners who want a more permanent, step‑free solution, consider vertical platform lifts or a small residential elevator. Platform lifts can be a lower‑cost exterior or interior option and often have less demanding pit/headroom needs, but they’re usually more utilitarian in appearance. Enclosed home elevators require a shaft, a pit (commonly a foot or two) and headroom above the top landing, plus structural support and coordination with electrical and HVAC systems—placing the shaft adjacent to an existing stair or mechanical chase minimizes framing changes. Budget realistically (platform lifts often starting in the low five‑figures; enclosed elevators ranging higher), plan for permits and regular maintenance, and, if you’re not ready to install one now, frame and reserve the space so future installation is straightforward.
How should I plan doorways, hallways and sightlines in a split‑level home so it’s easy to navigate as I age?
As a custom home builder I treat circulation as the backbone of an age‑friendly split‑level. On paper that means creating clear, mostly straight paths between the rooms someone will use every day and avoiding short, choppy corridors that force frequent turns. Where possible I align door openings and sightlines so a person can see the next destination from the current room — that visual cue reduces trips and makes wayfinding intuitive without relying on memory. Keep landings and intermediate spaces open rather than boxed-in so occupants have space to pause and turn safely.
Be specific about dimensions during design or a remodel: specify 36‑inch clear doorways as a baseline (32 inches is the absolute minimum) and aim for 42–48‑inch hallway widths if you can — that makes walking aids or a wheelchair much easier to use. Plan for a 60‑inch turning circle in primary living areas and in front of key doors so someone can maneuver without backing up. Use pocket doors or doors with swing‑clear hinges to maximize clear opening width, and consider relocating or removing nonstructural closets or built‑ins that create narrow pinch points.
Practical choices in finishes and furnishing reinforce circulation: leave a continuous, unobstructed 36–42 inch path through main routes and keep furniture, shoe benches and storage out of that corridor zone. If you’re retrofitting, small changes like stripping wide casings, resetting jambs, or flipping a door swing can gain several inches of usable width without major structural work. Work with your builder to walk the route at slow pace and with any mobility aids you expect to use — we’ll mark pinch points on site and sketch the minimal plan changes that produce the biggest improvement in daily ease and independence.
How do I design accessible bathrooms and kitchens in a split-level home, including curbless showers, adjustable counters, and reachable storage?
As an experienced custom home builder, what construction details should I specify to get a true curbless shower in a split-level home that stays watertight and has a comfortable seat and handheld spray for seated users? I build a pre-sloped mortar bed with a linear drain (slope ~1/4″ per foot toward the drain), use a bonded waterproofing membrane over the substrate, locate the drain and bench so water naturally flows away from the door/entry into the shower, and size the bench at a usable height (roughly 17–19″) with a clear grab area—these are practical details that prevent water migration to adjacent levels and make the shower usable while seated.
As an experienced custom home builder, how can I incorporate adjustable-height counters and accessible sink zones so someone can sit or stand comfortably at the same work area? I recommend planning at least one dedicated work zone with knee clearance under the counter (design for removable base cabinets or a roll-under sink cabinet) and either a fixed lower counter section in the 28–34″ range or a motorized adjustable-height island that moves across the same range; specify an undermount sink with off-center drain and shallow rim to maximize knee space and choose faucets and fixtures that allow for side or rear mounting to keep the work surface clear.
As an experienced custom home builder, what storage layouts make daily items reachable in bathrooms and kitchens without step stools or excessive bending? I lay out pull-out pantry shelves, full-extension drawers, toe-kick drawers, and roll-out trays in lower cabinets; specify wall cabinets with pull-down shelving hardware and keep frequently used items between roughly 15–48″ above the finished floor, place ovens and microwaves at mid-height or on a raised cabinet bay, and use drawer-style vanities and appliance-drawer dishwashers so everything is accessible from a seated position while preserving ample storage.
What fall-prevention features and environmental controls should I add to make a split-level home safer for aging homeowners?
As a custom home builder, I start with the walking surfaces because most falls begin there. Specify flooring with a wet-slip coefficient of friction (COF) of at least 0.6 and choose matte, textured finishes rather than highly polished surfaces; porcelain or textured sheet-vinyl are good options in entryways and kitchens. Keep floor transitions flush or bevel thresholds to 1/2″ or less with tapered edges, and minimize the number of material changes across common paths—where changes are unavoidable use low-profile transition strips and secure rugs with anti-slip backing or fixed edge trim so they never lift. In split-level plans, pay particular attention to small landings and corridors where users step between levels: continuous, high-contrast nosing on any step edge and a consistent floor surface help older eyes judge depth.
Lighting and controls are the next priority because older adults need more light and quicker access to it. Design layered lighting: bright, even ambient light for living spaces, targeted task lighting over counters and reading areas, and low-level night-path lighting that can be motion-activated in hallways and at level changes. Install three-way switches at both ends of corridors and near stairs, use LEDs with high CRI (90+) and a color temperature around 3000–3500K for better visual clarity, and include dimmers and programmable scenes (for example “night path” that illuminates hall and landing at low level). Wire for occupancy sensors and place sensor zones so lights come on before a person enters a potentially hazardous transition or stair approach.
Hardware and environmental controls tie everything together for ease and safety. Use lever-style door and faucet handles mounted in the standard reach envelope (34–48″ AFF) and single-lever or touchless faucets to reduce grip strain; choose lever levers with 1–1.25″ head diameters for comfortable grip. Plan a smart-home backbone during construction: run low-voltage conduit to a central hub, hardwire key devices (entry lighting, garage door, thermostat) and provide local manual overrides so systems work without internet. Specify battery-backed smoke/carbon detectors and consider optional fall-detection sensors or wearable integration, but always design so any automated scene has a reliable manual control nearby—reliability and predictability are what make environmental controls truly fall-preventive for aging homeowners.