RKM Homes builds custom houses on clients’ lots around the Denver metro area, so we choose siding solutions with both local climate and long-term durability in mind. Even in relatively dry Colorado, winter snow, spring runoff and localized moisture from landscaping or roof drains create conditions where rot and pests can take hold if materials or detailing are wrong. When a client asks “what shake siding will hold up best,” we evaluate not just the material’s inherent resistance to decay and insects but also installation details (drainage plane, fasteners, clearances) and maintenance expectations that directly affect how long a wall assembly will stay sound.
When homeowners want the look of shakes, the common choices are natural wood (cedar/redwood), fiber‑cement shakes, engineered wood shakes, polymer/composite shakes and, less commonly, metal or vinyl imitation shakes. Cedar has natural rot‑resisting oils and a classic appearance but still requires proper flashing, clearance from grade, borate or factory treatments and periodic staining to prevent moisture infiltration and wood‑boring insects. Fiber‑cement and solid composite shakes are non‑organic, so they do not rot and are insect‑proof; they’re heavier and require corrosion‑resistant fasteners, and fiber‑cement needs careful cutting and protection from silica dust during installation. Engineered wood products offer factory-applied water repellents and better dimensional stability than raw lumber, but they remain wood‑based and depend on a dry, well‑detailed installation to avoid failures. Vinyl and metal mimic the shake look and eliminate rot and insect concerns, though they trade off authenticity of texture and can have other issues (thermal movement, denting, UV fading) to consider.
No material choice eliminates the need for correct detailing and routine upkeep. Best practice includes a continuous drainage plane with a rainscreen gap behind the shakes, stainless or hot‑dip galvanized fasteners, minimum clearance to grade and plantings, properly terminated flashings at windows and eaves, sealed cut ends, and routine inspection after winter. Snow accumulation, clogged gutters or buried siding edges are common failure points for otherwise durable materials. At RKM Homes we match the shake material and warranty to the lot conditions, preferred look and maintenance tolerance, and we supervise installation details that ultimately determine whether a siding system resists rot and pests for decades.
Which shake siding materials resist rot and pests best for a custom home?
If you want natural wood shakes, choose species and grades that are inherently durable — Western Red Cedar, Alaskan Yellow Cedar and old-growth redwood are the top choices because their heartwood contains natural oils that deter decay and some insects. Ask your supplier for vertical-grain, heartwood shakes (not sapwood) and look for clear, dense grades; those characteristics matter more for rot resistance than simply “cedar” on a label. Kiln-dried, heartwood shakes perform better than mixed-grade, green shakes because the moisture content and cell structure are more stable and less attractive to wood-boring pests.
Non-wood and engineered options virtually eliminate rot and pest concerns: fiber cement shakes are inorganic so they won’t decay or sustain termite damage, and modern engineered wood products are resin- and preservative-treated at the factory to resist fungal decay and insect attack much better than untreated lumber. High-quality polymer or cellular PVC shakes will not rot or attract wood pests either, though they behave differently (thermal expansion, paint compatibility) than wood or cement. Each of these alternatives gives you low biological risk; the tradeoffs are appearance, weight, and installation differences you should discuss with your builder.
From a practical-builder standpoint, pick the material based on how much biological risk you’re willing to accept versus how important authentic wood appearance is. If your priority is minimizing rot and insect problems with minimal ongoing worry, specify fiber cement or a high-grade polymer shake. If you want real wood and are prepared to manage some risk, insist on heartwood cedar or thermally modified wood and require factory-grade material and corrosion-resistant fasteners at install — those choices most directly reduce rot and pest vulnerability at the material-selection stage.
How should I manage moisture, flashing, and rainscreen/ventilation for shake siding to prevent rot and pests?
Start with a continuous, well-executed drainage plane: a WRB (housewrap or self-adhered membrane) that is lapped shingle-style and taped at seams, and well-integrated with flashing at windows, doors, and roof intersections. I always install a self-adhered membrane or metal pan under vulnerable openings (sill pans at windows/doors and behind porch roofs) and extend step and head flashings at least 2″ onto the WRB so any water shedding behind the shakes is directed out. Don’t rely on caulk as the primary defense—plan for positive drainage and use mechanically lapped materials so gravity does the work.
Provide a true rainscreen and continuous ventilation behind the shake course rather than butting siding directly to the WRB. A clear air gap of roughly 3/8″ (10 mm) created with vertical furring strips or a proprietary drainage mat gives a capillary break and room for air movement; this gap should run the full wall height with a continuous vent at the top and a drainage/weep path at the bottom. I use insect screening on both top and bottom vent openings, maintain at least 6″ clearance from exposed earth (and 2″ above paved surfaces), and keep vegetation and vines off the wall so pests aren’t using a bridge to reach the siding.
Pay attention to flashing details and corrosion-resistant materials: step and counter flashing, properly installed kickout flashing at roof-to-wall intersections, and through-wall flashings at horizontal terminations are non-negotiable. Use stainless-steel or appropriately coated flashings and hot-dipped galvanized or stainless fasteners so connections don’t fail and create entry points for moisture and insects. Finally, plan for an annual inspection of flashings, vent screens, top and bottom gaps, and any sealant to catch failures early—repairing a single flashing detail is far cheaper and less destructive than replacing a rot-damaged wall.
What preservation treatments, coatings, and maintenance schedule will keep my shake siding rot- and pest-resistant?
From my experience building custom homes in Denver and the Front Range, the most reliable approach for natural wood shakes (cedar or redwood) is a two-stage protection: a preservative pre‑treatment and a breathable topcoat. Treat shakes (and especially end cuts and nail holes) with a borate brush‑on or dip during installation to control fungi and wood‑destroying insects — borates are excellent against rot and termites but are water‑soluble, so seal them quickly. Follow the borate with a penetrating, oil‑based water‑repellent preservative that contains a mildewcide; it soaks into the wood, slows moisture uptake and reduces checking. If you prefer to avoid maintenance entirely, choose non‑wood shakes (fiber‑cement or composite) — they don’t need biocidal pre‑treatments and are inherently rot‑ and pest‑resistant, though they still require painting or repainting on a long cycle.
Choose coatings based on the look you want and how much upkeep you’ll accept. Semi‑transparent oil‑based stains preserve the wood grain and are easiest to recoat locally, but expect to refresh them every 3–5 years in our high‑UV, seasonal climate; solid stains or high‑quality exterior paints give longer intervals (5–10 years) but hide the natural grain. Whatever you pick, use breathable/microporous finishes so trapped moisture can escape — non‑breathable varnishes or heavy film finishes can accelerate decay underneath. Use corrosion‑resistant fasteners (stainless or hot‑dip galvanized) and treat fastener holes and exposed cuts with preservative immediately to avoid localized rot and insect entry.
A practical maintenance schedule I give homeowners includes an annual visual and hands‑on inspection (after winter thaw and again after major storms), cleaning every 12–24 months with a soft wash and mild detergent to remove debris and mildew, and spot‑treating exposed cuts or damaged shakes with borate plus topcoat touch‑ups. Recoat semi‑transparent stain every 3–5 years, solid stain/paint every 5–10 years, and plan for full repaint or replacement cycles aligned with those intervals. Keep shrubs trimmed back, maintain 6–12 inches clearance from soil/gutter splash, fix flashing and gutters promptly, and replace any shakes showing steady moisture staining or insect galleries — timely small repairs are far cheaper than replacing entire elevations.
How do local climate, site conditions, and prevalent pest threats affect my choice of shake siding?
As a builder working across Denver and the Front Range, I always start with a site-specific climate and exposure assessment before recommending a siding type. High-altitude UV, strong winds, heavy snow and frequent freeze–thaw cycles on certain slopes change how materials weather; north-facing or deeply shaded walls dry much slower than sun-exposed elevations and will accelerate biological decay on untreated wood. Take photos and note which facades get prolonged shade, driven snow, or canyon winds — those microclimate details should steer you away from natural wood shakes on walls that stay damp most of the year.
Pest risk is equally site-specific. Subterranean termites can be a concern along the urban corridor, carpenter bees and wood‑boring beetles turn up where there’s nearby deadwood or older structures, and carpenter ants like moist, decayed wood in shaded areas. Practical, inexpensive steps reduce that risk immediately: keep bare soil and organic mulch pulled back from the foundation (6–8 inches clearance), stack firewood off the ground and away from walls, prune branches at least a couple of feet from siding, and have a local pest inspector report on known neighborhood infestations before you choose materials.
Use your site assessment to decide whether to invest in a more rot‑ and insect‑resistant option for the most exposed elevations and reserve traditional wood where conditions are favorable. If the house sits in a shady canyon, next to heavy vegetation, or on a wind‑driven ridge, plan for non‑wood or engineered shakes on those exposures and clean, inspect, and clear around vulnerable areas at least annually. Ask your builder to document observed risks in the contract and factor simple mitigation (grade correction, clearance, cleanouts) into the scope — those small, site‑specific moves protect siding performance more than generic product claims.
How much will shake siding cost, how long will it last, and what warranties and maintenance should I expect?
From our experience building homes in Denver, the best way to think about cost versus rot and pest resistance is total lifecycle cost, not just the sticker price. Non-organic options (fiber‑cement or high‑quality composite shakes) carry higher upfront installed costs — expect ballpark ranges from roughly $7–14 per square foot installed depending on profile and complexity — but they routinely deliver 30–50 years of service with minimal rot or insect risk. Natural woods like cedar or cypress are typically less expensive to buy raw (often $5–12/sq ft installed) and offer excellent natural resistance when maintained, but expect to budget regular refinishing and closer inspections because untreated wood left unattended is the most common cause of rot and pest entry we see on projects.
Ask manufacturers and your installer for warranty specifics before you commit. Practical questions: does the warranty explicitly cover fungal decay/rot and insect damage, is it prorated or limited to the original owner, and what installation or maintenance conditions will void coverage? Many fiber‑cement and engineered products come with 25–30 year limited warranties against material failure; wood products’ warranties vary widely and often exclude issues caused by moisture intrusion or improper ventilation. Always get a written warranty that names both material and installation coverage and keep proof of scheduled maintenance (receipts/photos) — warranty claims for rot or pests are frequently denied due to neglected upkeep.
Plan maintenance into your cost planning and set a simple, realistic schedule: visually inspect siding and trim twice a year, clear gutters and keep soil/plantings away from the bottom edge, and address any missing caulk or damaged shakes immediately. Budget roughly $1–3 per square foot every 3–7 years for wood re‑staining or touch‑ups, and roughly $0.5–1.5 per square foot every 10–15 years for repainting fiber‑cement; factor a modest annual reserve (we recommend setting aside 0.5–1% of the siding installation cost per year) for repairs so you don’t defer fixes that turn into rot or pest problems. If your priority is minimizing rot and insect risk with the lowest long‑term hassle, specify a non‑organic shake product or factory‑treated shakes and require documented, professional installation that preserves warranty conditions.